Terry, I have here a brand new 1725 rpm, 1/4hp motor. Perfect for making a sync motor as I am told by you and others. You say that it would have to be the distance from the center of the last "active pole" , skipping the "dead" pole, to the center of the next active pole. I can see that you skipped a few poles in this process, the "dead" one and one or two more. My motor, as far as I can tell, has a 4 "dead" poles, but then the next one is wrapped with run windings. That means that the distance would be ~1/2", doesn't that sound incorrect for a 3 1/4" armature? I'm sure I'm screwing up somewhere... Thanks in advance Scott Hi Scott, Damndest thing!!! I am sitting here making a sync motor too. I was just taping off the rotor for grinding 5 minutes ago... I guess great minds thing alike!!! My rotor is 3.2226 inches across. I am cutting flats 0.850 wide. My A.O. Smith motor has 36 metal chunks in the outer motor part (not the rotor). I am measuring from center-of-flat to center-of flat on four of them. There are three notches with the skinny wires in between notches with the heavy wire. The metal chunk with a heavy winding on one side and a skinny one on the other is were you measure from. I guess these are the "half dead" poles. ;-)) I included the not to scale drawing we all go by. The skinny wire sections are sort of hidden in the center of the heavy winding loops so look carefully all around for them. Let me know if this solves your problem or if you need further info. It is all very fresh in my mind ;-)) Cheers, Terry At 11:01 PM 01/18/2000 -0500, you wrote: >Terry, > I have here a brand new 1725 rpm, 1/4hp motor. Perfect for making a sync >motor as I am told by you and others. You say that it would have to be the >distance from the center of the last "active pole" , skipping the "dead" >pole, to the center of the next active pole. I can see that you skipped a few >poles in this process, the "dead" one and one or two more. My motor, as far >as I can tell, has a 4 "dead" poles, but then the next one is wrapped with >run windings. That means that the distance would be ~1/2", doesn't that sound >incorrect for a 3 1/4" armature? I'm sure I'm screwing up somewhere... > >Thanks in advance >Scott Thanks! My motor has 36 chunks in there too and my rotor measures closer to 3 1/8" (are you sure you aren't copying me? hehe) I guess I'll make 7/8" flats which goes from the center of the last pole ,skipping the dead one and one more to the center of the next live pole (i did mess up before). Now I just need a way to cut the flats, a metals shop would cost me around $50, I'd rather use a file, but I doubt I could make the flats perfectly even. Is there anyone you know or any certain type of place that would cut them for me cheap? I was told to ask a car repair place, but they're asking the same big price :( I can't wait to get the motor running sync, it always seemed I'd never be able to make one, this is just my second year of coiling... Scott In a message dated 1/18/00 11:31:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, terrellf@uswest.net writes: << Hi Scott, Damndest thing!!! I am sitting here making a sync motor too. I was just taping off the rotor for grinding 5 minutes ago... I guess great minds thing alike!!! My rotor is 3.2226 inches across. I am cutting flats 0.850 wide. My A.O. Smith motor has 36 metal chunks in the outer motor part (not the rotor). I am measuring from center-of-flat to center-of flat on four of them. There are three notches with the skinny wires in between notches with the heavy wire. The metal chunk with a heavy winding on one side and a skinny one on the other is were you measure from. I guess these are the "half dead" poles. ;-)) I included the not to scale drawing we all go by. The skinny wire sections are sort of hidden in the center of the heavy winding loops so look carefully all around for them. Let me know if this solves your problem or if you need further info. It is all very fresh in my mind ;-)) Cheers, Terry At 11:01 PM 01/18/2000 -0500, you wrote: >Terry, > I have here a brand new 1725 rpm, 1/4hp motor. Perfect for making a sync >motor as I am told by you and others. You say that it would have to be the >distance from the center of the last "active pole" , skipping the "dead" >pole, to the center of the next active pole. I can see that you skipped a few >poles in this process, the "dead" one and one or two more. My motor, as far >as I can tell, has a 4 "dead" poles, but then the next one is wrapped with >run windings. That means that the distance would be ~1/2", doesn't that sound >incorrect for a 3 1/4" armature? I'm sure I'm screwing up somewhere... > >Thanks in advance >Scott >> Hi Scott, I just cut the flats on mine about an hour ago... Mark the areas on the rotor you want to cut (or save) very clearly with a black marker or something. Then cover the shafts and all the parts of the rotor (except the areas you want to cut with plastic tape to protect them from the metal dust. Clamp the thing in a vice so it is solid. Go rent, borrow, steal, or by an angle grinder. It has a heavy duty flexible grinding wheel 90 degrees to the motor. It is a hand held metal cutter from hell. See you Sears catalog for details. Get a couple 60 grit (or close) grinding disk for it too. You can file the flats by hand but it will take four years. The grinder takes 1/2 hour if you go slow. Motors are pretty basic iron things and you really can't screw up. Simply grind off the flats taking care to keep the grind flat (hold it level) and stay within your cutting area. Don't push hard and just slide the cutter over the area in sort of a brushing motion. It is really easy and if you try to remove equal material, it will stay balanced and all just fine. When in doubt, cut less rather than more. You can practice on any chunk of metal. The rotor will get hot so you may have to let it cool down between cuts. Simply remove the tape, clean it up, and your done. I had to add a shim to my motor because the shaft could move back and forth more than I liked. Mine used a 5/8 inner diameter fiber washer I found at the hardware store. It was only about 1/32 thick but it removed all the play from my motor's shaft perfectly. I just powered my motor up and it runs perfectly and is in sync. The current draw is 4.7 amps and the motor is rated for 5 amps so It runs fine. 1800 RPM motors really don't turn fast enough to have to worry too much about balance as long as your careful. Cheers, Terry At 03:38 PM 01/19/2000 -0500, you wrote: > >Thanks! My motor has 36 chunks in there too and my rotor measures closer to > 3 1/8" (are you sure you aren't copying me? hehe) I guess I'll make 7/8" >flats which goes from the center of the last pole ,skipping the dead one and >one more to the center of the next live pole (i did mess up before). Now I >just need a way to cut the flats, a metals shop would cost me around $50, I'd >rather use a file, but I doubt I could make the flats perfectly even. Is >there anyone you know or any certain type of place that would cut them for me >cheap? I was told to ask a car repair place, but they're asking the same big >price :( >I can't wait to get the motor running sync, it always seemed I'd never be >able to make one, this is just my second year of coiling... > >Scott > > > >In a message dated 1/18/00 11:31:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, >terrellf@uswest.net writes: > ><< Hi Scott, > > Damndest thing!!! I am sitting here making a sync motor too. I was just > taping off the rotor for grinding 5 minutes ago... I guess great minds > thing alike!!! > > My rotor is 3.2226 inches across. I am cutting flats 0.850 wide. My A.O. > Smith motor has 36 metal chunks in the outer motor part (not the rotor). I > am measuring from center-of-flat to center-of flat on four of them. There > are three notches with the skinny wires in between notches with the heavy > wire. The metal chunk with a heavy winding on one side and a skinny one on > the other is were you measure from. I guess these are the "half dead" > poles. ;-)) > > I included the not to scale drawing we all go by. The skinny wire sections > are sort of hidden in the center of the heavy winding loops so look > carefully all around for them. > > Let me know if this solves your problem or if you need further info. It is > all very fresh in my mind ;-)) > > Cheers, > > Terry > > > At 11:01 PM 01/18/2000 -0500, you wrote: > >Terry, > > I have here a brand new 1725 rpm, 1/4hp motor. Perfect for making a >sync > >motor as I am told by you and others. You say that it would have to be the > >distance from the center of the last "active pole" , skipping the "dead" > >pole, to the center of the next active pole. I can see that you skipped a >few > >poles in this process, the "dead" one and one or two more. My motor, as far > >as I can tell, has a 4 "dead" poles, but then the next one is wrapped with > >run windings. That means that the distance would be ~1/2", doesn't that >sound > >incorrect for a 3 1/4" armature? I'm sure I'm screwing up somewhere... > > > >Thanks in advance > >Scott >> Paul, FYI - Terry >Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 13:07:45 -0700 >To: "Ron West" >From: LUGNUT00@aol.com (by way of "Terrell W. Fritz" ) >Subject: Re: making a sync motor > >Ron, FYI.... - Terry > > > >Thanks! My motor has 36 chunks in there too and my rotor measures closer to > 3 1/8" (are you sure you aren't copying me? hehe) I guess I'll make 7/8" >flats which goes from the center of the last pole ,skipping the dead one and >one more to the center of the next live pole (i did mess up before). Now I >just need a way to cut the flats, a metals shop would cost me around $50, I'd >rather use a file, but I doubt I could make the flats perfectly even. Is >there anyone you know or any certain type of place that would cut them for me >cheap? I was told to ask a car repair place, but they're asking the same big >price :( >I can't wait to get the motor running sync, it always seemed I'd never be >able to make one, this is just my second year of coiling... > >Scott > > > >In a message dated 1/18/00 11:31:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, >terrellf@uswest.net writes: > ><< Hi Scott, > > Damndest thing!!! I am sitting here making a sync motor too. I was just > taping off the rotor for grinding 5 minutes ago... I guess great minds > thing alike!!! > > My rotor is 3.2226 inches across. I am cutting flats 0.850 wide. My A.O. > Smith motor has 36 metal chunks in the outer motor part (not the rotor). I > am measuring from center-of-flat to center-of flat on four of them. There > are three notches with the skinny wires in between notches with the heavy > wire. The metal chunk with a heavy winding on one side and a skinny one on > the other is were you measure from. I guess these are the "half dead" > poles. ;-)) > > I included the not to scale drawing we all go by. The skinny wire sections > are sort of hidden in the center of the heavy winding loops so look > carefully all around for them. > > Let me know if this solves your problem or if you need further info. It is > all very fresh in my mind ;-)) > > Cheers, > > Terry > > > At 11:01 PM 01/18/2000 -0500, you wrote: > >Terry, > > I have here a brand new 1725 rpm, 1/4hp motor. Perfect for making a >sync > >motor as I am told by you and others. You say that it would have to be the > >distance from the center of the last "active pole" , skipping the "dead" > >pole, to the center of the next active pole. I can see that you skipped a >few > >poles in this process, the "dead" one and one or two more. My motor, as far > >as I can tell, has a 4 "dead" poles, but then the next one is wrapped with > >run windings. That means that the distance would be ~1/2", doesn't that >sound > >incorrect for a 3 1/4" armature? I'm sure I'm screwing up somewhere... > > > >Thanks in advance > >Scott >> Ron, FYI.... - Terry Thanks! My motor has 36 chunks in there too and my rotor measures closer to 3 1/8" (are you sure you aren't copying me? hehe) I guess I'll make 7/8" flats which goes from the center of the last pole ,skipping the dead one and one more to the center of the next live pole (i did mess up before). Now I just need a way to cut the flats, a metals shop would cost me around $50, I'd rather use a file, but I doubt I could make the flats perfectly even. Is there anyone you know or any certain type of place that would cut them for me cheap? I was told to ask a car repair place, but they're asking the same big price :( I can't wait to get the motor running sync, it always seemed I'd never be able to make one, this is just my second year of coiling... Scott In a message dated 1/18/00 11:31:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, terrellf@uswest.net writes: << Hi Scott, Damndest thing!!! I am sitting here making a sync motor too. I was just taping off the rotor for grinding 5 minutes ago... I guess great minds thing alike!!! My rotor is 3.2226 inches across. I am cutting flats 0.850 wide. My A.O. Smith motor has 36 metal chunks in the outer motor part (not the rotor). I am measuring from center-of-flat to center-of flat on four of them. There are three notches with the skinny wires in between notches with the heavy wire. The metal chunk with a heavy winding on one side and a skinny one on the other is were you measure from. I guess these are the "half dead" poles. ;-)) I included the not to scale drawing we all go by. The skinny wire sections are sort of hidden in the center of the heavy winding loops so look carefully all around for them. Let me know if this solves your problem or if you need further info. It is all very fresh in my mind ;-)) Cheers, Terry At 11:01 PM 01/18/2000 -0500, you wrote: >Terry, > I have here a brand new 1725 rpm, 1/4hp motor. Perfect for making a sync >motor as I am told by you and others. You say that it would have to be the >distance from the center of the last "active pole" , skipping the "dead" >pole, to the center of the next active pole. I can see that you skipped a few >poles in this process, the "dead" one and one or two more. My motor, as far >as I can tell, has a 4 "dead" poles, but then the next one is wrapped with >run windings. That means that the distance would be ~1/2", doesn't that sound >incorrect for a 3 1/4" armature? I'm sure I'm screwing up somewhere... > >Thanks in advance >Scott >> Hi Terry, I made my sync motor finally and it works great! When i run it in a dark room with onlt a flourescent light, I can see 4 distict shadows and when I slow it down (very hard to do, even with a rag) the shadows move slower and then align back where they were. I can't really find time to get a disk and electrodes, but I'm sure it'll come out great when I do. Thanx for the advice. Also, I had gone on AOL and my keybaord got the "enter" key jammed down, so when I was looking through the list mail, it replied and sent just about pure nonsence to the list, I have no idea what it said, sorry about that. Thanks and sorry, Scott Hi Scott, At 03:26 PM 02/08/2000 -0500, you wrote: >Hi Terry, > > I made my sync motor finally and it works great! When i run it in a dark >room with onlt a flourescent light, I can see 4 distict shadows and when I >slow it down (very hard to do, even with a rag) the shadows move slower and >then align back where they were. I can't really find time to get a disk and >electrodes, but I'm sure it'll come out great when I do. Thanx for the >advice. > Great!! glad to know it all worked well. >Also, I had gone on AOL and my keybaord got the "enter" key jammed down, so >when I was looking through the list mail, it replied and sent just about pure >nonsence to the list, I have no idea what it said, sorry about that. > No problem, I'll trash it with all the other nonsence ;-)) Terry >Thanks and sorry, >Scott Got them finished up, and a fow people have asked for them (i posted for volunteers on the list), so when I hear back from them, I'll throw the polish on it and send it to ya! Thanks for the patience! Caio! Shad OK NEAT!! At 04:56 PM 5/30/00 -0400, you wrote: > Got them finished up, and a fow people have asked for them (i posted for >volunteers on the list), so when I hear back from them, I'll throw the >polish on it and send it to ya! Thanks for the patience! > Caio! > Shad >