My 6 Inch Tesla Coil

Secondary Coil


Secondary Coil - Construction

Here's how I built my Secondary Coil.

First, I purchased two endcaps for my coil that were flat on the ends. The bottom cap, I cut down, to keep the bottom of the secondary even with the primary coil. On the bottom of the cap, I drilled 5 holes, 4 of which are for the bolts I use to secure the secondary to my table, and the 5th in the center.

On the side of this cap, I bolted a copper plate. The heads of the bolts were flat, and went inside the cap. I also counter-sunk the inside of the cap, so the bolts were flush with the inside, and so that the pipe could go into the cap. On this plate, I soldered a bolt, which served as the connnection for RF ground. (I used a lug on the RF Ground cable.) This is all before the coil was wound. Then I soldered an inch or two of the magnet wire onto the plate.

The other end cap also had a whole drilled in it. To wind the coil, I got a very long threaded rod, and ran it inside the coil, and tightened nuts down on the inside and outside. This way the whole coil was hooked to the rod. Then I put the rod in a drill, and spun it, while my dad directed the wire.

When I got to 30", I taped down the wire (This is at the top by the toroid). I soldered that end to about a foot of standard 12AWG (Primary) wire. I chose this because it was very flexible. I put the solder job under a nice blob of JB Weld. After that dried, I removed that piece of tape.

On the other cap, I attatched a threaded rod about 1.5" long in the same hole I used to wind the coil. I connected the 12AWG wire to this rold via a lug.

My toroid, has a threaded rod coming out of the bottom, with a coupler ( like a very tall nut) on the end, with stop nut behind it. So to connect the toroid, I simply spin it on.

After winding the coil, I replaced the drill with a coathanger crank, to turn it slower, so I could varnish it. Dual 500W halogen lights help with the drying, but don't keep them to close, or you will get bubbles :-( .

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